Let them eat potatoes. Joel Robuchon's recipe for the perfect mash

PARIS – Mashed potatoes were to Joel Robuchon, the star French chef who died on Aug 6 at 73, what a madeleine sponge cake dunked in tea was to novelist Marcel Proust: a powerful, sensuous reminder of his youth.

And as far as he was concerned, the more butter, the better.

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